Tokyo, for a While
A snow-covered mountain seen beyond a railway platform in Japan

Japan felt like the natural choice for my research exchange. A former collaborator had spent time at the National Institute of Informatics (NII), my master's supervisor was from Japan, and some friends were doing their PhDs in Tokyo.

I grew up watching Japanese anime but had never been to Japan. By then, it had also been five years since I had returned to China, because of the pandemic and other circumstances. With restrictions lifting, the exchange gave me a chance to live in Japan and finally take a trip home.

So in March 2023, I left Stockholm for Tokyo.

A Death Note manga page reading keikaku dori, or according to plan, at the Kyoto International Manga Museum
Death Note, Kyoto International Manga Museum.
An open volume of Death Note at the Kyoto International Manga Museum

Everything was going according to plan (計画通り).

I studied a little Japanese shortly before leaving. I still could not read much when I arrived, but kanji and context often gave me enough to guess. That usually got me through shops, train stations, and menus.

A friend in Sweden knew someone who ran a restaurant in Japan, and they helped arrange my accommodation. It was about ten minutes from NII by bike.

My days soon settled into a loop. I worked on multimodal generation at NII, went to the gym, browsed the second-hand shops in Akihabara, and went home. I rarely had anything particular in mind when I visited Akihabara. I was happy just looking around.

My workstation at NII, with a laptop and two external monitors
My desk at NII.
A group of researchers gathered in a seminar room at NII
At NII.
Taking a mirror photo among the weight machines at a gym in Tokyo
Anytime Fitness, Tokyo.

After enough visits, Akihabara stopped feeling like a destination. It was simply another familiar stop between the lab, the gym, and home.

Tokyo was very different from Stockholm at night. Stockholm was quiet and many places closed early. In Tokyo, I could leave the lab or gym late and still find a meal without planning ahead. I got used to that quickly.

I travelled elsewhere in Japan as well. Kyoto was quieter than Tokyo, and some streets felt more like an old town. Even so, the routine days in Tokyo are what I remember best.

A traditional wooden building beside a pond in Japan
Jōetsu, Japan.
People standing on a beach in Jōetsu at sunset

After six months, Tokyo no longer felt like somewhere I was visiting. I enjoyed its convenience and late nights, but by August I was ready to return to the quiet, uneventful pace of Stockholm.